Friday, March 16, 2012

Les Baux de Provence In Photos + Some Words


I've been to Les Baux de Provence three times now and each time I'm awed by the views and a bit creeped out by the history there.

The first time was on our honeymoon and we just happened upon its ruins of a medieval village and chateau perched high above it all. There were tourist buses parked down below and as we sped by in our rented Renault we couldn't help but stop.

{me in 1998 with a ghostly figure behind}



I went again last summer when K visited and we were on our mission to see all the Old Stuff in Provence. If you don't remember it you can read all about it here.
 
{me in 2012 with a Golden girl}

I've always wanted to take the kids because I knew they would think it was super cool and so it was on my list of day trips during the winter break. It was off season and therefore quiet, like it was in 1998 and not like it's become during the summer months.

{the real village busy in the summer}
There weren't any knights or peasants with microphones telling the story of the fortress while encouraging audience members to throw rocks with the catapult and other ancient weapons of war.

{ancient timeout}
I'm sure my guys would get a kick out of that too, but I have to say I prefer it a bit more old school and less manufactured fun. We were the only ones there for the first hour or so.

{directing the search for clues}
We brought our walkie-talkies and so the big kids were able to head off a bit ahead of us, checking in with a location update every couple of minutes. We could see them the whole time but it sure did make them feel like they were explorers.

{explorers}
They were given a booklet with a riddle to solve using clues placed around the site and they scampered along the rocks searching and calling out to each other.

{searching for clues with P-Daddy}
The Littlest hung out with us and we all caught up to each other for a picnic and some photos in the ruins of the chateau. 
{Littlest and one of the old windmills}
There are square boxes and holes cut out in the rocks which once served to hold beams and as medieval cabinetry. And arches from the walls of dining rooms and fireplaces are still there, all these years later.



There's also a wall of pigeon keeps that looks like a medieval mail sorting station, which I guess it kind of is.
{K's photo of the chateau, pigeon keeps to the left}


And the view.

Every vantage point offers something breathtaking.

To one side you have olive groves and row after row of carefully tended grapevines.


From another, you see the Valley of Hell with its monstrous rocks and hidden caves.


And if you look really hard, the Camargue area of our region leading to the Mediterranean Sea out in the horizon.


{horizon beyond}
You can climb a narrow staircase with centuries' worn holes deep in the steps up to the highest edge of the ruins.

{Explorers at the highest point}
The Littlest, Clementine and I stayed behind while P-Daddy and the Explorers checked it out. They were rewarded with more beautiful views.
 

{down to the village and surrounding Alpilles}
It's a must see in my opinion, obviously. I'll happily take anyone else who visits and wants to see it. A's family is coming this summer. I'll bet we'll have another happy day exploring the old chateau. I can't wait.

















16 comments:

  1. Bonjour Aidan-- I have never been to Les Baux de Provence, so this post was just perfect! Lots of stories, lots of good shots - and the cute kids! - so I can feel as if I, too, have been there now. It's always amazed me how, when you travel around France, there always seems to be a chateau somewhere (or two...) It does not matter what region you are in. Like you I prefer to see them when nobody is around, and without the "mandatory activities" reserved for tourists. If your kids liked les Baux, you will have to take them to La Dordogne valley once, in the Black Perigord. Amazing area! Veronique (French Girl in Seattle)

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  2. Wow! What a beautiful place. The remaining architecture is stunning, what a shame it was abandoned when it was still habitable.

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    1. It has such a long history of war and being conquered.
      It's cool and I could never do it justice on here.
      There is an eery feeling there when it's off season that's kind of lost when it's packed and all the 'amusements' are in full swing.
      Aidan xo

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  3. Looks like fun! I will be sure to go next time I am in France.

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    1. You shouldn't miss it. I think it's better than Carcassone but don't tell anyone in the Languedoc I said that!
      aidan xo

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  4. Definitely a perk of living in a country that everyone wants to visit is being able to do your own visiting off-peak! Makes up for the rude comments in the boulangerie - non?!

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    1. It sure is Nicola. And the croissant aux amandes made up for the fat flirty comments already.
      aidan xo

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  5. I've been following your blog since I started looking for blogs about living abroad (which I did from January-June 2011.) I'd like to include you in my list of nominees for the Versatile Blogger Award! Check out my (other) blog here for info about spreading the love! http://ambidexteri.wordpress.com/

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    1. Hi Rachel! Thanks so much for reading and commenting and hanging in there with me for all this time. I love it when people let me know they're following.
      And thanks too for mentioning me on your blog as a versatile blogger. I appreciate all the blog love and will work on my reply post.
      All the best.
      Bon weekend,
      Aidan xo

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  6. How marvelous that the children were able to see this wonderful place so full of history and places to climb! You're family is so very lucky to be able to share this.
    V

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  7. I've never gone clear to the top to the chateau ruins. It looks like a high place from down below, but (alas) I'm afraid of heights so I've hesitated.

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    1. Oh, Lee the view from up there is magnificent. And the climb up the old stairs is scarier than actually being up there. I've seen some people on their knees on the way up!
      aidan xo

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  8. Bah, you were sooo close to Arles! :à The next time you go, there is a great walking path on the hills opposite the village--the view is so incredible, especially at sunset.

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  9. Amazing, still haven't been but want to. Would we need to put J2 in the backpack you think? (Lots of dangerous drop offs for 2 yr olds?)

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  10. What great fun for the big adventurers and the little one too! The views are incredible and I love the shot of the Camargue area with the Mediterranean beyond the multihued horizon. Just gorgeous!

    Bises,
    Genie

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  11. We love Les Baux and have been there quite a few times. Obviously, with fewer visitors and bright blue skys, it is a wonderful place to explore. Not so much fun when its packed with tourists or when you are up top and the Mistral is blowing full blast.

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